I don’t need a fancy Otterbox that adds lots of bulk. A thin silicone case to absorb some force from falling on the edges is all I want.
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Since the back cover is plastic and snaps in (see the video with Todd taking the L5 apart), a useful phone case would replace that back cover and snap in itself.
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Some tidbits about making a case:
- Printed case is not as durable as moulded one (TPU or mixed material). However, that can be a bit compensated by making it thicker as well as using coating (possibly several layers).
- A clever designer might be able to make a case where silicone/TPU bumbers are attached separately to add drop shock resistance.
- What @ktmr suggested, replacing back cover in the design may make the design slimmer, which is a bonus. It also opens possibility to screw the case on using the inside screw holes (not advising it atm though as external cases seem to gain from not being too tightly connected to chassis thus allowing a bit room to absorb forces and not deliver them forward)
Bonus features to consider (“feature cases” - how many can you fit in one?):
- screw mounts for camera lenses,
- USB-splitter or hub (ports for IR/remote, charging options, NFC etc.)
- extra battery (possibly a separate slim battery that is easy to attach to the back of the case OR an 18650 because reasons),
- support for standing phone on its side at a comfortable viewing angle,
- screw to connect to a tripod or selfie-stick (or Go-Pro style activity rig via adaptor),
- credit/payment/transit card pocket (can also be added to phone with adhesive as a pocket),
- solar charger panel (or multiple, foldable) ,
- mini stylus compartment,
- wireless charging,
- emergency mirror for signaling, concave for fire, convex (or camera) for hair and makeup
- repair toolkit: a screwdriver compartment
- boyoncy (what waterproofing?),
- micro quad-copter “transformer”
- Transformer (Autobot),
- handcrank for backup power,
- standard socket for external antenna
… and what ever else anyone can think of.
[Edit to add: Kitchen sink mentioned, also, heat dissipation elements: pipes, external fans etc. Starts to remind me of one of these - although mostly not a joke. Mostly.]
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Or the company noticed all the tree-related iterations from A-E within a year timeframe assuming they would need to do the same number of adjustments and resizing to the mould/production process - which obviously should not be the case here
Probably not easily. They plan to integrate the wireless antennae into the back cover. Could include that in an aftermarket cover, but not trivially.
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A kitchen sink?
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@dedxi, I have done this already here (picture here). It is a script that generates an .stl file in a FLOSS (GPL2) CAD software called OpenSCAD. I have been waiting on exact dimensions for many moons now. If anyone gets dimensions please let me know. I think I am in batch Chestnut (ordered Oct 2017), so if all else fails, I should get them by the end of the year.
We have discussed economics of cases here. In batches of >100, a printed TPU case should be doable ~$20-30 delivered.
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So, people are receiving the Evergreen, and dimensions are thus known. Has anyone made progress on this, or given the correct information to third parties in case they are interested?
I would love to finally finish my cover, and release the design to the community, but the only Evergreen recipient that is talking about it so far is @amarok, and he seems pretty busy. If he happens to have some fairly accurate calipers (+/- 0.25 mm), I could probably talk him through what I need, but I will probably just wait until I get my own Evergreen (ordered 7 Oct 2017). What I would really like is the exact dimensions from Purism, preferably in the form of CAD files. I have not been able to do that yet, though @Kyle_Rankin indicated at the end of August that they might be forthcoming at some point. C’mon, Purism, all the cool kids are doing it!
Nah, I don’t have anything to take such accurate measurements. Given the odd shape of the beveled back, it’s probably best to wait until you have one in your hands, or the CAD files. Sorry.
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if you take a piece of millimeter paper and take a few pictures of the L5 as close as possible to isometric perspective from top/down/left/right etc. angles then you might be able to model something fairly accurate …