For now the workaround is to use the terminal keyboard–>" >_ key"–> menu
sudo apt install gnome-screenshot
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Thank you John,
cooler heads prevail.
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Have you tried swapping the antennas as I asked earlier?
Currently I’m using a SparkLAN card with just a single antenna connected (because I was too lazy to re-route the other one while replacing my old Redpine card 
) and I’m getting pretty much the same dBm readings as on my Dell XPS 13 laptop for 2.4GHz networks (differences within 1-2 dBm) and about 20 dBm worse readings for 5GHz (which I’m pretty sure can be attributed to a missing antenna). Both bands remain usable across my house. Your values show much more extreme differences, which would point to some antenna issues. You should also check the antenna cable connections on both ends (especially whether connectors aren’t damaged).
Not necessary anymore, taking screenshots is possible from the power button long press menu.
Thanks DOS,
I am back into this after putting is aside for the weekend. I will have a go at the antenna, I think you might be on the right track there as I DID see a slight improvement simply disconnecting and reconnecting them.
One thing though, there is not sufficient slack in the antenna cable when I simply take the small cover off. If I open it right up, can I expect enough slack to swap them and will it impact my warranty?
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regarding case, i bought bumper on Amazon that suits great!
I prefer bumper instead of case because the first one protects L5 from drops and crashes without overheating it as a cover! It’s open along the sides so I can use every button.
here the link to this bumper:
https://www.amazon.it/gp/aw/d/B0BV3G45TB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
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The comment on the photo is pointing to the cellular modem module (BM818) however, not the WiFi module.
If you are convinced that the WiFi is faulty then absolutely you should contact support@puri.sm and discuss a warranty claim.
In case it wasn’t obvious, the same keyboard that gives you the Menu key also gives you the Tab key.
I did warn you about that in my post. They are expressing things differently. One is more user-friendly but can’t be compared directly with another device if the other device is expressing the signal strength in dBm.
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well there goes any credibility I thought I might have had.
I may not be able to do that now since thinking I was rerouting the WiFi I actually swapped and rerouted the modem, in the process I managed with my ham fists to break BOTH the antenna connectors where the wire crimps in. I put it all back together, the WiFi now with no antenna connected at all and I get the exact same performance as before. Does that imply they were never working properly?
When I opened the case I saw the WiFi AUX antenna had been crushed, by the look of it during assembly.
Could that explain the initial poor reception is that unlikely? RF is not my thing.
Sorry. I should have re-read that before complaining.
I looked there and didn’t see it and was embarrassed to see it when I went back there. PEBKAC Sorry again. I was frustrated and that was not professional of me.
So here’s the irony. I decided I could do this without breaking it, but I was wrong, I managed to break off both the WiFi antenna terminals.
I do not think I have the skills to reconnect them. Can they be purchased? Since I am getting identical performance on the WiFi even with no antenna I am thinking if I replace them I might get real WiFi.
I assume my ham fists mean no warranty.
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If you could prove that it was cold solder joints that caused the weakness, it might help. From what I understand, those connectors only tolerate pressure in the up or down direction. A nudge sideways can break them. There are special tools to ensure that the right pressure is applied. I have not heard of anyone using said tools, so I am not sure what the success rate is with them. I have switched out the card a few times by putting a small flat head screwdriver (the size that you would use for sunglasses) under the wire side of the connector and gently rotating to put an upwards pressure on the side closer to the connector. It is not ideal, but it is probably more gentle than some other techniques that do not use the proper tool.
The damaged insulation on the wire could be a problem, so I recommend getting that replaced too. Make sure to get the correct one / length. If you see exposed metal, then it could have grounded the signal, making it useless. I am also not an RF expert, but I think that there should be a certain distance between the conductor and the ground, even if there is an insulator between them, because if they are too close the capacitance can increase. It probably has to be really close to make a practical difference given the short length of the damage. If you are going to do that yourself, make sure that it is seated in the channel as much as it can be before reassembly. Maybe there was excess wire there, and the excess bent towards the screw and got crushed. From the picture, it does not look like it, but the angle of the picture could be deceiving. Maybe something else happened.
I also have concerns about comparing dBm values between devices. I would focus on bandwidth and latency, but comparing different WiFi generations, frequency bands, or even different placement/orientations to the access point can throw that off.
a) That would be something to discuss with Purism, and
b) maybe it is time to let someone with the necessary skills fix everything up (i.e. repair if not warranty).
I don’t know whether you have said what country you are in but if you are in the US then at least any kind of return does not mean having to navigate Customs again.
The OP reported though that the connection dropped completely. Probably academic now … 
Thanks. I just read that. The working within 10 feet part was interesting. I guess this makes sense for a bad connection. A really strong signal could overcome whatever problem this was.
I second the e-mail support recommendation. The problem was documented before the phone was opened up. Hopefully, that counts for something. Although I could see why a company would not want someone making a repair more expensive by causing more problems, which is why I brought up the cold solder joints. Maybe the weakness in the connector shows that there was an existing problem. I wish that the proper tools were easier to obtain. I guess I should make an effort to get them because I have a few more cards to replace. That would take the ham fist variable out of this equation, or at least, reduce it.
After undoing the screws at least something on a giant spring didn’t pop out. Like a cartoon jack in the box.
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I know what the fair response would be from Purism but I’m not sure they will cover it. You went into your device based on advice in this forum from a dev. And it’s clearly a manufacturing defect that lead to your poor wifi performance. That is a coax cable that is crushed and rendered useless, it is required to keeps it’s dimensions in order to in the very least maintain the correct impedance but in this case the center conductor is either severed or shorted to the shield, in which case you effectively have no antenna.
I would most definitely raise a case to send the phone back for a warranty repair, as the root cause was a manufacturing defect and you never would have gone into the guts of your phone if that wasn’t the case.
As for the u.fl connectors on the board, you are not alone, I did the same thing on my cell modem and I was extremely careful as I am aware of the delicacy of these connectors but examining the board after the solder joints look cold to me, but I have no way of proving it so now I’m operating on one cellular antenna.
I think in the future if I have to do any of this again I will get the proper tools because even using a plastic spudger with great care did not help with this. I think Purism should include these tools or at least make them available in the store if this phone will truly be a “user serviceable” phone.
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I bought one immediately. Looks really nice. I already have a Zitto bumper: it’s the same basically, but without the protective corners. So, it’s less bulky, but offers less protection.
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Hey! You have it upside down! 
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I am very very impressed with the response I got from support. The phone is going back, we agreed to split the shipping. I send it back, they fix it, if they determine the issue was a manufacturing error they will ship it back at their cost.
Either way they said they will fix it and this makes me VERY VERY happy.
I LOVE the concept.
I LOVE community support.
I LOVE the company support.
I LOVE this phone.
I made the right choice, you made the right phone.
kudos
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i think thats worth just sending it back for repair since fix should be easy before you accidentally break any connections. jinx just read your post…