We don’t use libcamera in full capacity yet, just to configure the resolution in Millipixels. But work is in progress to use more.
The average user doesn’t need to do anything because I don’t plan on upgrading libcamera in the PureOS repos until there’s something new that is relevant to the L5.
Just to add that libcamera has plans to support OpenCL Accelerator, so Librem 5 may benefits for.
I imagine the L5 taking good photos with faster processing, less heat. less energy.
I don’t know anything about OpenCL, but the Librem 5 does not support it anyway. I’m working on accelerating some transformations using OpenGL right now. Whether it helps, we’ll see.
L5 is capable for OpenCL 1.2, the free gpu driver may not yet support opencl. May Collabora help on this to L5.
Thank you.
By the way, that is a 404 link. Riddle me this. The device has a camera Icon. Taking a image with it, I need to steady the device because it takes 13 seconds before the dizzy-circle stops spinning - why it does is anyone’s guess. At some point, after it stops, a thumbnail of a black screen is in Pictures folder, and I am supposed only use it outdoors???
What is the ETA on the device camera actually working. Puri avoiding it does not fix it. It’s supposed to be a camera - a selling feature. It didn’t say. someday - maybe, maybe not - check back and read FAQs - a 145 FAQ questions to read though to see if one is my issue.
How can I find out when this device was put together and stuff installed? Is it 1 month, 6, 12, 24 or 36 months old? That will give me a idea of how soon I should break and buy a stalker device.
You don’t. It grabs the photo instantly; it only takes that time to develop it into a JPEG file.
It already works perfectly fine, but until a new version of the app is deployed you still have to adjust gain, exposure, focus and white balance manually with sliders in the camera app UI.
It depends on what one means by “perfectly fine”. I think you are judging it by how much the app has improved over the last two years. Others might be comparing it to other smartphones and things like “waiting 15 seconds between shots” and “no automatic/manual flash” does not qualify as “perfectly fine”.
[Edit: I meant this to be a reply to @Sharon Librem 5 camera software ]
The link by Torrone about “Cheese” is stale. The referenced link is dead, but it also points to their software development issue tracker where they shifted from “Cheese” to “someone developing a camera app” two years ago. https://source.puri.sm/Librem5/Apps_Issues/-/issues/6 . And even that is no longer relevant since it doesn’t point to the “millipixels” application (which, I think, is a fork of their previous label/app called “megapixels” https://puri.sm/posts/cameras-its-complicated/)
The camera app is, I think, Millipixels and the development effort on that can be seen here: https://source.puri.sm/Librem5/millipixels/activity . Realize that this is a developer repository (with issue tracking, etc.) where one can look at how the sausage is made. If you’re used to github/gitlab you can get an idea about your last question in regard to the camera ( “How can I find out when this device was put together and stuff installed?”) by looking in that repository link, or even the README in the source files https://source.puri.sm/Librem5/millipixels/-/tree/master
Overall, I agree with you: The Librem 5 promises more than it delivers. Sadly, I don’t think you’ll be able to find an answer to “when will the Librem 5 be ready for prime time” (mostly because there isn’t a general agreement about what that means since it’s seemingly a different definition for each person).
Depending on your requirements, there are other devices+software that might meet your
requirements in terms of not being a “stalker device”. You’re probably already aware of them,
so I won’t go into detail, but a simple de-googled Android (like LineageOS … or even the more
extreme GrapheneOS) might be enough.
I meant what I wrote. It does work perfectly fine - it’s definitely not as convenient as other phones right now, but it’s fully functional.
You don’t have to wait between shots.
I believe that I’m not overstepping too far by saying that the poster (Sharon) does not agree.
Does it have a flash that is triggered by the shutter (whether automatically with low light or a toggled on/off) setting?
You’ll know if you are “overstepping”. 
I do disagree with “fully functional”. Too much that is said to be “fully functional” isn’t - IMO. But I’ve come across product support elsewhere that refuses to agree that something isn’t working, in public. Too, I have to tap the snap button several times before it wakes up and starts the spinner. There is nothing to suggest anything happens when pressing that button - no flash, no click - nadda. Whereas, some icons, I feel if I even look at them, they’ll load up.
Answer: No.
I’ve mention the dull, yellow ‘torch’ several times and no one has addressed that, so I gather then that everyone has a yellow, not white ‘torch’/flash/thing. Jim is searching for that now on his brand new Samsung 
Hmm. I wonder if anyone would miss him.
~s
The flash feature consists of 2 white LEDs. Hopefully they have very different color temperatures: warm and cold. I think that this topic came up before, but it has been a while. I guess that they have other priories than enabling the cold LED. The idea is that if you are under incandescent light, then you should use the warm LED and if you are under sunlight, or fluorescent or LED bulbs that emit colder light, use the cold LED (when this feature is available). We should also be able to mix these LEDs to generate the color temperatures in between. I am guessing that they defaulted to the warm LED because in most situations when there is not enough light, the light that you do have in that environment is typically warm. By matching the flash color temperature to the surrounding light, the flash does not introduce color temperature distortions.
Typically, the phosphor color on the LEDs are different shades for warm and cold (when you are looking at them while they are turned off). Here is an example. I do not see a big difference on my phone, but it does look like only the bottom
EDIT: After thinking about this more, considering the same phosphor color, early iPhone flashes, and the individual control, it may be that 2 LEDs are used for taking a photo, and only 1 is used for a “torch.” The reason may be heat dissipation. Running a flash continuously can produce more heat than the phone is designed for. Typically you would use PWM to control brightness, but maybe that strobes too much for a photo sensor. Adjusting the current would also dim without strobing, but maybe they did not have room for that circuit. Given how warm the LED color temperature is, they could still put a cold white LED temperature in there and the flash would be a neutral color temperature, and we would also get a neat color temperature adjustable torch, but I am not sure that is what is going on.
This “phone” has two bulbs at the back, both of them that is the two of them are exactly the same amber colour. And, wherever I go, and try a pic, it’s amber/yellow whatever but certainly neither are white, neither produce anywhere near white light - just yellow:
Don’t know if you’ll see this or not, but it’s a pic of my keyboard taken from about 10" away. The stuff at the top is the bottom of my monitor screen.
Device camera settings are:
Gain 32
Exposure 900
Balance d50
Focus 250
I doubt it’s settings because nothing changed from the default setting to the ones above.
BTW, there is no flash. I’ve not seen a device without one.
G’night
~s
Those are the default values that will generally only work well in proper daylight outdoors. You’re supposed to adjust them to match the lightning conditions. In the other thread you told me that you did that, but you did not.
d50 will most likely be a reference to the CIE D50 Standard Illuminant, in layman’s terms, the images being produced by the camera will be colour balanced on an assumption that the scene/subject is being light by 5000K daylight source(s).
The LED being used by the torch feature of the phone has a measurable colour temperature of (approximately) 2400K and Duv of (approximately) 0.0017.
Having the camera’s [white] balance set for 5000K daylight source while lighting the scene/subject with a 2400K source (i.e. the phone’s torch) will result in the images being produced by the camera having a colour balance heavily shifted towards yellow/amber tones.
The camera software lacks the convenience of automatic or even semi-automatic modes that most are accustomed to and have come to expect. While that remains the case settings have to be applied manually, if you are using the torch to light the scene/subject and desire the images being produced to have a natural/neutral colour balance (i.e. whites to look reasonably white) then the camera’s [white] balance should be set to 2400K or close to it (if that’s possible?)
While I can fully understand that you may not recognise the output of the torch as being (even remotely close to) white, in the world of lighting particularly for film and camera the torch output would be considered a 2400K white light source.
Did not do what? Does this device have a camera that you can see everything I do? Or don’t do? Get over my mistakes please, and I already have fact checker doing that. Don’t need two of you bullying me around. If you can’t read it all - your issue, don’t make it mine.
I take it everyone had something in their cereal this morning they didn’t like.
Bye
Thank you @Loki There really should be a link from the ad for L5 to your explanation. My error was in believing the ad. I will drop the issue because it’s really caused quite a stir. I will never agree that it’s a camera too. Not yet. And, the two LEDs are YELLOW not white and no amount of pressure to accept they are white will change them from yellow to white. Others have 2 whites. So I got a extra special deal 
You admitted yourself that you didn’t adjust the sliders by posting the gain, exposure, balance and focus values made while taking the photo. Those are the settings you’re supposed to adjust based on conditions around to make the photos look good and that you told me (in the other thread) that you did.
You’ve been linked multiple times to a guide that explains how to do it: https://puri.sm/posts/librem-5-photo-processing-tutorial/
All Librem 5s have two warm white (yellowish in appearance) LEDs as a torch / camera flash.
No they do not have LED torch in white color (equal to around 5000K). I’d rather guess that those two Chip-On-Board LEDs are around 2600K as 2400K goes more in direction of candle light color (the most preferable color of light, more reddish than yellowish, after any kind of daylight disappeared). Anyway (color of flash light used on some smartphone might not be allowed in public indoor places, especially if blue LED light dominates during any photo session) and within this thread it is more important for us here to get familiar with this related presentation: sharp_photos.mp4.
