Regarding a cover/case it would be cool to have two slits in the back if the back ever gets added back to run an armband through to use for running, working out, etc.
I’ve got the script up on Github
I hope it’s fairly self explanitory, but please let me know if anyone needs explanation of any of the user-set parameters. I’ve grouped all of the settable parameters at the top of the script. When we have the final phone dimensions with the locations of the controls, we should just be able to plug them in.
Anyone unfamiliar with OpenSCAD that is interested can download it from http://www.openscad.org/
I may start a new thread to broaden the exposure.
@snarfel, my cover is not backless. Although with an aluminum cover you don’t really need a back, I prefer to have something to protect the aluminum cover from scratches/dents, even if it increases the overall thickness. It should therefore be fairly straightforward to add two slits to the back of this design. Maybe start a new branch from my github main branch? Let me know if you need help.
@Quarnero, although my current design has a back, it should be fairly straightforward to remove the back using my OpenSCAD script on Github. If you’re interested, why don’t you start a new branch there? Let me know if you need help.
@ecs, sure I am looking forward to dive into it soon … tomorrow is a new day thanks to you (and your work). First step is already done: # apt install openscad … that’s it for now, great!
I added some back slits on a branch script
Hello ecs, I’m on FreeBSD and right now installing the port OpenSCAD in it to run your script through. What kind of material would be appropriate for printing the cover later? Thanks for your idea and work. Looking forward to get my L5 soon.
Ultimately, I think TPU (thermoplastic urethane) or some other TPE would be best for the final product. That being said, an initial run in any material would be useful at this point, just to test the print-ability of the design. One thing in particular I’m curious about is if 1 mm thickness is sufficient, or if 1.5 or 2 would be better. Let me know how it turns out, or if you run into any problems!
I do not own any 3D-printer, but we have copy shops in Munich for this. They charge 10 Euro per printing hour. What do you think, how long your design as STL file will take for printing?
The only printing I have done is on consumer-grade printers with PLA, and I currently don’t have “hobbiest” access to one. I would conservatively estimate that it could be done in 2-3 hours? Anyone else have a guess, or can run it through some software to check? They might tell you if you send the file to the copy shop.
Stuff like this is never 3D printed.
This would be very expensive, but most of all you’re significantly limited in choice of material and quality.
3D printing silicone is very hard, the few printers that can do it are very expensive and barely available.
I find it highly unlikely to get a adequate quality silicone cover via 3D printing.
To do it right would be to have a specialized company produce it, via a molding process.
For that you’d just have to provide them with the specification and they will produce a mold (which is the expensive part) once, and can do several thousand hulls using that mold.
For a one-off, this would cost a lot of money, but if there would be an order of maybe 1000 pieces, the cost would go down to under 20 dollars per cover.
Also, ordering more would be cheaply possible.
If Purism doesn’t plan to do it, I think the most realistic way of producing covers would be to do another crowd funding, for example on Crowdsupply, and contract a company to do it.
For example: https://www.rpmrubberparts.com/custom-parts
You could 3d print in a cheap material (PLA) then make a mould from that to cast from. 3D printing makes the prototyping phase much more available and less expensive than it used to be. This allows each person the option to make their own mould and cast to the level of quality and precision they desire.
Sure, you could do that, but no hobbyist level printer does get a near acceptable quality to cast a mold.
The steps would be to model your cover, print it, finish it by hand, make a clay mold, and use that to cast a silicone cover.
But let’s just forget about the 3D printing hype for a moment: Instead of costly and slow printing, you could just use an aluminum block and use a hobbyist CNC router to directly make a much higher quality mold that could actually be used to form silicone.
It’s still no trivial task, silicone is hard to work with, not least because of the very high temperatures required.
In any case, there are a variety of methods that could be used to make covers (hard plastics are much easier than soft silicone), but it seems to me that 3D printing would be at the end of the list of useful tools to do that.
Just because everything you have is a hammer, it doesn’t mean that every problem is a nail.
I totally agree about the silicone – I’m not suggesting printing in that, that was just the material assumed by the poster that started the thread. Thermoplastic elastomers (TPEs), and specifically thermoplastic urethane (TPU) however, are good materials for making phone covers/cases (my last 3 cases for two phones are TPU (and the oldest lasted 3-4 years before cracking). Online services such as 3Dhubs.com do print in TPU, and a single printing of my design costs ~$77, so yes, it’s also quite expensive.
BUT! If 100 are ordered, the price drops to ~$15 per cover, which is still pricey, but (I would say) a manageable price. I would also agree that Purism has no interest in going into the phone cover printing business.
SO – I would say that if we want a (relatively) affordable cover, we’re going to have to do crowd funding, as tg_gpm suggests, to pay someone like 3Dhubs to print us some TPU covers. tg_gpm, would you be willing to do this? Please? I unfortunately don’t have the bandwidth for something like this now.
Since this product has no pics , does it mean that we are to wait for them to make it after the specs - dimensions are confirmed by Purism?
I dunno … just saw it … Thought it was worth posting . someone should buy one and see what shows up
Also , kinda interesting that they have “availability dates” just a week from now. Do they know what we don’t or just a bold guessing?
Though, would be more encouraging it was “shipped by Amazon”
But then, that would mean they already have it on stock…
IDK, but at this point I’m convinced that they will start shipping 1st of August.
Or let’s say , first deliveries, no later than end of August.
My dad is and has been a precision plastics mold maker for his entire career, and has been called out as one of the best in the nation many times. He’s worked on things ranging from Bic pens, to private and military aerospace components, medical equipment, and so on. I asked him about costs for making a phone case, and he told me a proper Made in America two-step process mold would cost ~60k to make. From there, costs to run it depend on where you run it and where the materials are purchased from. A two-step process is the type with a firm/ridged frame with a softer outer layer molded around it.
An investment in such a thing on Purism’s part would be a great thing for their customers, and likely cut down on need for replacement parts like screens and housings.