@pureismfan I thought it would be more appropriate to answer this question here, rather than clog up your thread.
Can you confirm they are for the latest Librem Mini (version 2)? That’s the one I have. If that’s the case, can you put them somewhere to download, e.g. send.tresorit.com ? You could post the link here or message it to me if you prefer.
Will these parts “just work”? So all I need are Librem Mini v2, your 3d printed parts, HDPlex H1 V3, and I’m good to go? (As you can hear, I’m a complete newbie here)
I was a Librem Mini newbie too 6 months ago.
The v1 and v2 are almost identical, the only difference is the CPU, so the adaptors should work with both boards.
This build is not simple, but it’s not terribly difficult, especially since I did the groundwork already. I’m sure everything I did voids the warranty, so you’ve been warned 
In addition to the 3D printed adaptors you’ll also need some 15mm motherboard/pcb standoffs I purchased mine from ebay
You’ll also need a tool to tap the screw holes (or you can just try screwing directly into the holes and hope that the screws cut the threads as they go).
When you get the parts printed try to get a high temperature plastic, preferably at least 80C. I don’t expect the CPU to ever get that hot but you don’t want the mounts to melt if something goes wrong. If you can get them in metal (especially the CPU adaptor) that’s even better.
Because of the way the ports are laid out on the board some of them will be inside the case, if you want access to these from the outside you’ll need to use extension cables and adaptors as I did in mine (see the build video for details).
Now for the tricky part: Once the board it mounted the power switch will be inside the case. What you need to do before you start the build is de-solder the power switch from the motherboard and solder on a couple of wires with 2 standard header pins, I used a bit of stripboard to make it more secure. You can do the same for the power LED as well if you like, then you can just attach the power switch cable that comes with the HDPlex case. The polarity of the switch doesn’t matter but the polarity of the LED does.
You’ll need to manually bend some of the heat pipes supplied with the HDPlex NUC adaptor kit (this probably voids another warranty), the NUC kit is sold separately to the HDPlex case. The bends are only small, I used a pipe bender but as long as you’re gentle I think you could do it with your hands, just don’t over do it or the pipes will get crushed at the bends.
You don’t need to buy the additional HDPlex power supply as I did, you can just use the one that comes with the Mini.
I’ll get my brother to send me the 3D printer files and I’ll upload them.
