right next to the router and any router. I tried to connect from another mobile phone (hotspot), with an old tp-link TL-WR841N and a newer Gli-iNet at 2.4 ghz, auto channel, manual channel. I check everything again on various frequencies 2 and 5
thank you for your reply
It is best to search for and review existing discussions of similar issues and the associated troubleshooting.
If you are having problems with WiFi connectivity then it is best to use 2.4 GHz - and to lock it onto 2.4 GHz and off 5 GHz. (I achieve that by having different SSIDs on the two bands, so by choosing an SSID, I am also choosing a band. Some people may not have their WiFi set up that way.)
During testing, it would be best to ensure that only one of your Wireless Access Points is powered on at any one time. However, regardless of that, you have to contend with your neighbours. Are you aware of whether you typically receive the SSIDs of your neighbours? If your neighbours are not a problem then I would suggest that during troubleshooting you use manual channel.
Finally, as suggested, do a scan on the Librem 5 to see what SSIDs it is detecting and what the receive power is (dBm).
Even if you don’t want to go down the warranty path with Purism support, you can still go down the troubleshooting path with Purism support, which would then make clearer what the best option is.
yes, I am.
Everyone has the problem of not being able to connect. My L5 connects to different routers and in different places. (favorite coffee bar) but the signal is very bad even just a meter from the router. It only occasionally shows a good signal. (probably caused by moving L5 to a better position compared to the router)
At home and at work, the old TP-LINK TL-WR841N at 2.4 GHZ from 2015. so
problem with 2.4 ghz or 5 ghz dual band is not possible.
Yes, in test time only one Access Points is powered on. SSIDs of neighbours L5 does not see them, android devices see them.
Only detects my home SSID and connect with -77 to - 95 dbm link quality 24%
Everything points in the direction that the problem is hardware related to the antenna or antenna connectors. Or some software related to power signal manipulation, but I don’t think that’s it.
If no one has yet reported the problem of Wi-Fi connecting properly but with a very poor signal, then I’m out of luck with a faulty Wi-Fi card, antenna or some…
I contacted purisam support and am waiting…
I could be getting -60 to -70 dBm when 20 metres away from the AP - but it is going to depend on the construction material of your house, how many walls between the phone and AP, what wall angle the signal is hitting. At -80 dBm I still have a reliable connection. Much more than that and the connection starts to become unreliable (which may equate with what you are seeing).
If that is in the same room as the AP then that is a very poor signal (I would expect maybe -30 dBm to -40 dBm), and I would wonder about antenna connection (as you say).
I received similar instructions from purism support. They answered quite quickly. The Wifi card looks well connected to the slot, both cables seem well connected to the card connectors. I will definitely let you know how this case ended with a working wifi card but very poor signal reception.
A lot fixes through newest firmware and driver not yet shipped to Pure OS moreover new Bluez and network manager in Crimson, as far i know BLE, RELIABILITY and maybe S2RAM already fixed in newest firm Redpine.
Sadly Purism drop support for Redpine because SPARKLAN is already mainline, but Silicon Labs is pushing the driver rsi to linux base, so eventually we will get new driver in some newest linux version on L5.
L5 hotspot working
if you meant it. But of course the problem with the signal is still present.
I am still in contact with Purism support. The assumption is that the antenna cable is damaged or the card is faulty. This type of failure easily passes product control because the tester has a router
nearby and probably had a full signal during the testing phase. ali but je*i ga!
good idea, for detecting a bad cable. If the signal is the same, the card should be ok. one cable is connected at the very bottom on the right side on the board with the usb c connector (is there an antenna?) the other is connected to the motherboard, on the top right (or is this an antenna?).
The device is still under warranty, so I can’t risk breaking something because I don’t have any spare parts